Interesting Places in the World

Havasu Falls, Arizona, USA

Havasu Canyon is a paradisiacal gorge where turquoise waters cascade into travertine pools and graceful willows and lofty cottonwoods provide shade and greenery in an extraordinary setting of towering red sandstone cliffs beneath a cerulean sky. It is a side branch of the Grand Canyon that was once the home of a prehistoric people but more recently it has been the occupied by the Havasupai for the past 800 years.

Seasonal rainfall, melting snow and percolating water are drained by Cataract Creek which rises on Bill Williams Mountain and crosses the Coconino Plateau. The creek wanders across the high plains for about 50 miles before dipping down into the steep sided Cataract Canyon. Except for flash floods, Cataract Creek is usually a mere trickle until it reaches Havasu Springs where an underground river gushes forth to form Havasu Creek. With a steady flow rate of about 28,000 gallons per minute and a heavy concentration of suspended calcium carbonate, the river bed is rapidly lined with limestone that reflects the sunlight and gives the creek its striking blue-green color. The waters plunge over Navajo Falls, Havasu Falls (100ft.), Mooney Falls (200ft.) on the way to the Colorado River about ten miles away from Supai Village. Water is especially precious in a dry and arid land and the Havasupai consider the source of this river to be a sacred place that is intimately associated with the legend of their origin. There are legends, too, of their end for they believe that the Wigleeva, two stone pillars that overlook their village, are guardian spirits and their destruction will signal the demise of the Havasupai.

Best Times to Go

April to May and September to November are best for a visit to Havasu Canyon because the climate is moderate on the rim as well as on the canyon floor. These months also avoid the heat and crowds of summer.

Getting There

There are no roads to Supai Village so visitors arrive by horse or on foot. The trail begins at Hualapai Hilltop which is a parking area with no facilities. Some hikers overnight at Hualapai Hilltop because it is more comfortable to start the trek in the cool, early morning hours. The nearest towns are Peach Springs and Seligman which are both located on Highway 66 about 68 and 90 miles respectively from Hualapai Hilltop. From Highway 66, take Route 18 north for approximately 60 miles to the trailhead. The sign for Route 18 is obscure, especially in the dark. An early morning drive across the Coconino Plateau can be rewarding for a glimpse of the stately mule deer that browse the shrubs in the pre-dawn hours.

The sparse vegetation and dry, rocky soil at the trailhead give no hint of the lush canyon home of the Havasupai at the bottom of Havasu Canyon, 10 miles away. The trail drops steeply by a series of switchbacks into Hualapai Canyon for the first mile and then descends more gradually for a half mile to the bottom of the canyon. Its sheer, massive walls become narrow, blocking the sunlight and distorting the size of giant boulders along the path. Eventually the canyon widens and cottowoods, willows, box elders, hackberry trees and wild grape vines diffuse the harsh sunlight of a mid-morning sun. The path follows a small creek that joins the noisy Havasu Creek at the confluence of the Hualapai and Havasu Canyons. Cattails, maidenhair fern and watercress can be seen along the creek to the village of Supai past peach orchards, fig trees and cultivated fields of corn and alfafa. Campers continue for two more miles to the first campsites.

Clothing/ Gear 

Bring comfortable clothing, swim suit, sturdy walking shoes, brimmed hat, insect repellent, sunblock, camera and lots of film. Ground fires are prohibited so a gas stove is necessary for those who plan to cook.

Planning Tips

• Be sure to pick up any provisions that you may need on Highway 66. There are no service stations or stores along the way. Supplies are limited and expensive at the small general store in Supai Village. It is recommended that you fill your car up with gas and carry at least 2 litres of water per person for the trek to Supai Village.
• Do give horses the right of way along the trail.
• Bring an adequate supply of food, especially if you cannot tolerate fried foods. Fresh fruits and vegetables may be limited.
• Plan to send postcards to your friends. The post office is the only one in the U.S. that is still served by pack train and your mail will bear a special postmark attesting to this.
• A visit to the small museum in Supai Village is worthwhile.
• For a leisurely trip to the waterfalls, plan to spend at least 2 nights in the village.
• Please be respectful of people's privacy as well as their fences.
• Alcohol, drugs, weapons and pets are not allowed in the canyon.